I’ve spent the past week in downtown/central Lima and I have to say that I really like it.
Before arriving I’d heard differing opinions from those who had already passed through, and surprisingly most people said Lima didn’t really ‘do it’ for them and they were happy to move on.
Almost everyone I spoke with both in Australia and since arriving in South America advised me to stay in the Lima suburb of Miraflores. Known as the touristy area a couple of backpackers I met the other day said you could almost draw a line down the street separating Miraflores from the rest of Lima, the difference is so distinct.
So I booked a hostel in Miraflores wandered around for a day and stayed for a night – and I didn’t understand. Miraflores is clean, reasonably calm, and located on the coast. But there isn’t an amazing beach there, in fact there is a significant cliff. The buildings aren’t flashy, the neighbourhood isn’t exuding wealth and there is almost no culture. It’s just a neighbourhood with some buildings and shops.
So I only lasted in Miraflores that one night, then very happily made my way back to downtown.
I really do feel it’s beautiful here. The streets are packed with people. Downtown Lima was yesterday described to me as a ‘melting pot of Peruvian people and culture,’ and that’s absolutely the best description I’ve heard.
The main square located in the top end of the central area is surrounded by the government palace, cathedrals, museums, restaurants and shops. The architecture is stunning. There are pedestrian streets with thousands of people shopping everyday in modern shops and eating in both small traditional and fast food restaurants.
I’m actually sitting in a Starbucks as I write this. I walked down this morning from my fantastically located, yet surprisingly affordable accommodation to Real Plaza, a shopping mall and cinema complex. On the way there and back I browsed through the many clothing, shoe and electrical stores. The plazas and squares I stumble onto as I walk are picturesque and calm.
The other main thing about the downtown/central Lima area is I feel completely safe here. Though I haven’t really been out at night alone, when I was with others we had no problem walking to and from restaurants in the area. Yes it does get empty late into the night as the majority of people head out of the centre back to their homes, but during the day the streets are absolutely flooded with people.
I truly don’t understand why more tourists don’t stay in the central area. In my opinion, if you’re coming to Lima and the only place you stay is Miraflores, it’s no wonder the city didn’t leave much of an impression.
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