Playa Blanca is only an hour or so drive from Cartagena, yet it feels like another world. A tropical Caribbean beach lined with huts and hammocks but with no electricity or wifi.
The white sand beach of Playa Blanca is beautiful, the water is crystal clear and warm and during the day it is filled with tourists. From approximately 11am each day boats, taxis and shuttles arrive with visitors looking for a relaxing day at the beach. At about the same time the Colombian sales people also arrive on the beach. Women offer 30 minute sunscreen massages and are happy to just begin rubbing your shoulders to give you a free sample. Others walk the beach offering bowls of fresh fruit salad or empanadas. Then there are the men with a range of jewellery, hats, sunglasses and pearls at a price that is ‘special for you.’
Playa Blanca is a beautiful place to relax and soak up the sun.
Other than politely refusing the many product offerings there’s really not a lot to do but enjoy the swimming and sun. Bars and small restaurants line the beach offering reasonably priced food and drinks and it’s a great place to kick back with a beer and relax.
Sit back and relax with some freshly made seafood and a beer.
At 3pm a mass exit occurs. Many tourists only visit Playa Blanca for the day (or the few hours between 11am arrival and 3pm departure) and suddenly by 4pm the beach is almost empty. The Colombian sales people also leave when the day visitors do, creating a very pleasant and quiet atmosphere for those who decided to spend the night.
At 5pm there is no one left on the beach but those of us who decided to stay the night.
Sunset on a deserted Caribbean beach is beautiful.
I decided to stay in Playa Blanca for two nights and am very happy I did. Expecting the top end of Colombia to have amazing beaches everywhere, I was disappointed to discover that beaches like Playa Blanca are few and far between. I loved waking up in the morning to a deserted Caribbean sea for a morning swim, and securing my spot on the beach by 9am before any of the day visitors arrived ensured I had a prime position for my day of doing nothing.
As I said there is no wifi or electricity at Playa Blanca, so the accommodation places don’t take reservations in advance. There are however many places to stay if you walk along the beach. I stayed at Hugo’s Place on the recommendation of other backpackers I had spoken with in Cartagena. Hugo’s Place is about a 10 minute walk along the beach from the shuttle and taxi drop-off point. Very popular with backpackers, Hugo’s offers either hammocks to sleep in or cabanas. Deciding to splurge whilst in Playa Blanca I booked a cabana for myself for two nights at 40,000 Colombian pesos per night ($20 Australian dollars.) The cabana was simple but comfortable with a double bed.
The cabana I rented at Hugo’s Place was simple yet comfortable.
Waking up to the sun, sand and surf each morning is beautiful.
Hammocks are also available to spent the night in for approximately 10,000 Colombian pesos ($5 Australian dollars)
Hugo’s Place has limited bathroom facilities. The toilets don’t have seats or toilet paper and need to be flushed by pouring a jug of sea water into the bowl. The showers are similarly limited. You are given half a bucket of fresh water each day to splash over yourself and remove the sand and salt as best you can. As I said, the facilities are limited but for a day or two it’s fine. Though I have to say on my third day upon returning to Cartagena, washing my hair under a running cold water shower was an amazing experience. I know all the fashion magazines are obsessed with the ‘beach hair’ look at the moment, but three days of sand and salt through my hair without being able to wash with shampoo was not overly attractive.
Hugo’s Place also provides food, juices and alcohol and has a nice relaxed feeling overall.
The thing I did notice whilst in Playa Blanca was there weren’t many solo travelers staying the night. Everyone else who was at Hugo’s Place whilst I was there were either part of a couple or a group of friends. This is something that I have noticed a lot throughout Colombia in general but particularly noticed in Playa Blanca. I’m not sure if it’s because Colombia is viewed from the outside as a dangerous country, or if it’s just coincidence that I’ve noticed whilst here. But it definitely seems to me that whilst there are many backpackers moving through Colombia, most are traveling in groups.
Having said that if you are a solo backpacker I thoroughly encourage you to spend a night or two in Playa Blanca. It’s a beautiful place to escape to and enjoy some quiet time in the sun.
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