Cuenca is my favourite city so far in Ecuador. It’s not frantic, it’s not dirty, it’s doesn’t have high-rise buildings or people hassling to sell, or steal. As soon as I arrived I was reminded of Florence, Italy. The buildings are colonial and beautiful. Old men sit in cafes and talk for hours, in no hurry to do anything else. Many of the churches and cathedrals are historically listed, and the city of Cuenca has taken steps to ensure new buildings fit with the classic style of the existing architecture.
I’m staying in the historic centre which I’ve been told is the area that tourists mainly visit. Stretching about 10 blocks it’s an easy and pleasant walk through the area.
Streets are lined with jewellery and ceramic stores, churches and dessert cafes. There are two cathedrals in the main square, old and new, and the new is beautiful. Smaller churches can be found every few blocks and all have the beautiful Spanish influence reflected in their design.
Of course there has been a huge Spanish influence on the city. Settled by the Spaniards in the 1600s they overran the Incan population, but the result of the Spanish/Incan mix is beautiful.
I have overloaded on sugar and delicious chocolate cake here. The bakeries and cafes are welcoming, inexpensive and delectable.
People are relaxed and happy here. Nobody seems to rush anything. The locals are polite and softly spoken. For such a large population in the greater area in and around Cuenca (approximately 400,000) there is a definite small town feel in contrast to the sprawling city’s size. Home to one of the best universities in Ecuador, possibly the world, locals are welcoming to visiting young people and tourists.
There’s a flower market that has been here for over 200 years. It’s open everyday and the competition to become a trader is fierce. Usually families inherit the market stalls from previous generations. Walking up to the market block the floral scent saturates the air. Ecuadoreans love flowers, especially in Cuenca. Restaurants, hotels, shops and homes are filled with them, making the city all the more beautiful.
We visited a Panama Hat factory. A free and interesting tour is given to those interested in the history of the classic hat that has always been made in Ecuador not Panama. We spent much of the visit in the show room trying on the range of beautiful designs, and I longed to squeeze a beautiful hat or two into my backpack.
At the moment I’m only here for two nights. Being on tour this is one of the places I wish we could spend longer, but not to worry I will be back.
I’m planning on making my way back down through Ecuador from Colombia and will definitely be coming back into Cuenca. I’ve been told Spanish lessons are good and inexpensive here, and as I am already so comfortable in the city I’m looking forward to spending a week or two improving my Spanish and indulging in desserts.
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